Isigqoko, into yemfashini engaphelelwa isikhathi futhi eguquguqukayo
Isigqoko siyisisetshenziswa esiye sahlala emakhulwini eminyaka, sivumelana nenkathi ngayinye kanye nemfashini yemfashini. Kubhekwa kokubili njengesiqeshana esisebenzayo sokuvikela elangeni noma emakhazeni, futhi njengesithasiselo sesitayela esinezela ubuntu kunoma iyiphi ingubo, isigqoko siyisici esiyinhloko ku-wardrobe yanoma iyiphi indoda. Kulesi sihloko, sizohlola izinhlobo ezahlukene ze- ukugqoka isigqoko samadoda ngendlela efanele nenhle, igqamisa izitayela, izinto zokwakha kanye namasu okuthola okuningi kule ngubo ewumfanekiso.
Ukwazi izitayela zezigqoko ezitholakalayo
Isinyathelo sokuqala gqoka isigqoko Indlela engcono kakhulu yokwenza isigqoko sakho ukuqonda izitayela ezahlukene ezikhona. Kusukela ku-Fedora yendabuko kuya ku-Trilby yesimanje, imodeli ngayinye inezici zayo ezivumelana nezikhathi ezahlukahlukene nokuthandwa komuntu siqu. Kubalulekile ukukhetha isitayela esifanele esivumelana nokuma kwekhanda nobuso bomuntu ngamunye, kugqanyiswe izimfanelo zabo futhi kuhambisane nesitayela sakhe somuntu siqu.
Ukucatshangelwa lapho ukhetha izinto ezifanele
Impahla yesigqoko ingesinye isici esibalulekile ekuqinisekiseni ukubukeka okungenasici. Nakuba izigqoko zoboya zilungele ubusika ngenxa yokufudumala kwazo, izigqoko zotshani zifanelekile ehlobo ngenxa yokuphefumula kwazo. Ukwengeza, kunezinye izinketho ezifana nezwe, ukotini, noma ngisho nezinto zokwenziwa, ngayinye enezinzuzo zayo kanye nezici ezihambisana nesimo sezulu esihlukile kanye nezintandokazi zobuhle. Kubalulekile ukukhumbula lezi zici lapho ukhetha isigqoko esifanele somcimbi ngamunye.
Amasu okugqoka isigqoko esinesitayela nokuzethemba
Gqoka isigqoko kudinga amasu namaqhinga athile ukuze kuzuzwe ukubukeka okuyinkimbinkimbi nokuzethemba. Ukubeka kahle ekhanda, ukutsheka okufanele, nokulingana okulungile kuyizici ezibalulekile zokugqoka lesi sisekeli ngobuhle. Ukwengeza, ukwazi ukuthi usihlanganisa kanjani isigqoko nayo yonke ingubo futhi ucabangela umongo kanye nesenzakalo esizosetshenziswa kuso kuyizici ezibalulekile zokufinyelela umthelela oyifunayo. Kulesi sihloko, sizohlinzeka ngamathiphu nezincomo gqoka isigqoko sakho njengomnumzane, ihlinzeka ngokuvikeleka nesitayela ngaso sonke isikhathi.
Ngalolu lwazi oluyisisekelo mayelana nezinhlobonhlobo zezitayela, izinto zokwakha kanye namasu we gqoka isigqoko ndoda, uzobe ulungele ukufaka lesi sisetshenziswa esingaphelelwa yisikhathi ku-wardrobe yakho. Isigqoko ngeke sikuvikele kuphela elangeni noma emakhazeni, kodwa sizophinde sengeze ukuthinta okuhlukile nokuhle kwezingubo zakho. Unganqikazi ukuzama futhi ulinge ukugqoka isigqoko ngesitayela!
1. Izinhlobo nezitayela zezigqoko zamadoda
Izigqoko zamadoda ziyizesekeli ezingakwazi ukwengeza isitayela nobuntu kunoma iyiphi ingubo. Kusukela kuzigqoko ezinomphetho obanzi wakudala kuya kwezamanje kakhulu nezidonsa amehlo, kunezinhlobonhlobo zezinhlobo nezitayela ongakhetha kuzo. Kulokhu okuthunyelwe, sizokukhombisa izinketho ezihlukene futhi sikunikeze amathiphu okuthi ungazigqoka kanjani izigqoko zamadoda ngendlela esesitayeleni neyinkimbinkimbi.
1. Isigqoko esinompheme obanzi: Lolu hlobo lwesigqoko lulungele ukuzivikela elangeni nokwengeza ukuthinta kwesitayela kunoma iyiphi ingubo. Ungakhetha isigqoko esinomphetho obanzi ngemibala emaphakathi njengomnyama noma beige, noma ubeke ubungozi ngesigqoko esinemibala egqamile njengoluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka noma obomvu. Ibhanqe nokugqokwa okujwayelekile noma okusemthethweni futhi uqiniseke ukuthi ububanzi bomphetho buhambisana nesimo sobuso bakho.Izigqoko ezinompheme obanzi ziyinketho eguquguqukayo futhi yakudala engaphumi esitayeleni.
2. Ikepisi yesitayela se-baseball: Uma ufuna isigqoko sezemidlalo nesingavamile, ikepisi yesitayela se-baseball ingaba inketho efanelekile kuwe. Bhangqa ikepisi namajini, isikibha, namateku ukuze ubukeke ngokukhululeka, nokungajwayelekile.Ofeleba batholakala ngemibala eminingi nemiklamo, okukuvumela ukuthi uveze isitayela sakho somuntu siqu. Zizophinde zivikele ubuso bakho elangeni futhi zikunike ukubukeka okusha, kobusha.
3. I-Trilby Hat: Lesi sigqoko esinomphetho omfishane, esinomqhele ophansi silungele amadoda afuna ukubukeka esesitayeleni futhi eyinkimbinkimbi. Ibhanqe namasudi asemthethweni noma nge-blazer kanye nebhulukwe lokugqoka ukuze ubukeke ngokujwayelekile.Izigqoko ze-Trilby zitholakala ngezinto ezihlukahlukene, njengoboya, ukuzwa, noma utshani, okwenza zifanelekele izinkathi ezahlukene zonyaka. Lesi sitayela sesigqoko sisebenza ngezindlela eziningi futhi singashintshwa ngezikhathi ezahlukahlukene, sengeze ukuthinta okuhlukile ekubukekeni kwakho.
Khumbula, isihluthulelo sokunyakazisa isigqoko samadoda ngendlela efanele ukuqinisekisa ukuthi silingana kahle nekhanda lakho nesitayela somuntu siqu. Linga ngezinhlobo ezahlukene kanye nezitayela zezigqoko ukuze uthole leso esikumela kangcono. Ungesabi ukugqama futhi wengeze ukuthinta kwesitayela esiyingqayizivele ekubukeni kwakho!
2. Indlela yokukhetha isigqoko esifanele isitayela sakho somuntu siqu
Isitayela Sakudala: Uma isitayela sakho siqu singakudala kakhulu futhi sicwengekile, izigqoko ezinompheme obanzi njengesigqoko se-Fedora noma i-Panama zikulungele. Lezi zigqoko zinikeza ukubukeka okuhle nokuyinkimbinkimbi okuhambisana ngokuphelele nesudi esemthethweni. noma ngisho nokubukeka okungavamile okupholishiwe. Khetha imibala emaphakathi njengomnyama, onsundu, noma ompunga ukuze uqinisekise ukuthi isigqoko sifana nazo zonke izingubo zakho.
Isitayela se-Bohemian: Uma ukhetha ukukhululeka kakhudlwana, isitayela se-bohemian, izigqoko zefloppy ezinompheme obanzi noma izigqoko zotshani zikulungele. Lezi zigqoko zengeza ukuthinta okungajwayelekile, kwe-hippie ekubukeni kwakho futhi zilungele izinsuku ezinelanga olwandle noma emikhosini yangaphandle. Bahlanganise nezingubo eziphefumulelwe nge-bohemian njengezingubo ezinde neziketi, amabhulawusi aphrintiwe, nezinsiza zohlanga. ukufeza ukubukeka okuphelele kwe-bohemian.
Isitayela Sezemidlalo: Kulabo abanesitayela sezemidlalo nesokujwayelekile, izigqoko ze-baseball ziyinketho enhle kakhulu. Lezi zigqoko zikhululekile futhi ziyasebenza, futhi zengeza ukuthinta kwezemidlalo engutsheni yakho. Khetha izigqoko ze-baseball ezinemibala egqamile kanye namalogo noma izimpawu zamaqembu akho owathandayo ezemidlalo, ukukhombisa uthando lwakho lwezemidlalo. Zihlanganise nezigqoko ezijwayelekile ezifana namajini, izikibha, namateku.
3. Amathiphu okuhlanganisa isigqoko sakho nezingubo ezahlukene
Ngezansi, sinikeze amathiphu awusizo okumatanisa isigqoko sakho nezingubo ezahlukene. Qhubeka ufunda ukuze uthole ukuthi ungabukeka kanjani uyinkimbinkimbi futhi unemfashini ngalesi sisekeli esibalulekile sanoma yimaphi amakhabethe amadoda!
1. Khetha isitayela sesigqoko esifanele saso sonke isikhathi: Izigqoko ziza ngezindlela eziningi nosayizi, ngakho-ke kubalulekile ukukhetha isitayela esifanele somcimbi ngamunye. Isibonelo, i-fedora noma i-trilby ingase ilungele imicimbi esemthethweni noma engavamile, kuyilapho isigqoko esinompheme obanzi silungele imicimbi yangaphandle. Gcina isimo sobuso bakho nesitayela somuntu siqu engqondweni lapho ukhetha uhlobo lwesigqoko sakho.
2. Hlanganisa imibala nokuthungwa: Ukuze uzuze ukubukeka kwesitayela nokuhlangene, kubalulekile ukuxhumanisa imibala nokuthungwa kwesigqoko sakho nayo yonke imvunulo yakho. Isibonelo, uma ugqoke isigqoko esizwakala esinsundu, ungase ufune ukukhetha imibala emaphakathi efana no-beige noma omnyama. Futhi, cabangela ukuthungwa kwesigqoko sakho. Isibonelo, isigqoko sotshani singagcwalisa ngokuphelele ingubo yasehlobo, kuyilapho isigqoko sesikhumba singangeza ukuthinta okuyinkimbinkimbi ekuhlanganiseni kwasebusika.
3. Ungakhohlwa isilinganiso: Uma ufanisa isigqoko nempahla yakho, kubalulekile ukugcina ukulingana engqondweni. Uma isigqoko sakho sikhulu futhi sidonsa amehlo, qiniseka ukuthi yonke ingubo yakho ilula futhi ayiqhudelani ngokunakwa. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, uma isigqoko sakho singaphansi kakhulu, ungangeza izesekeli ezithile noma izingcezu ngemibala egqamile noma amaphrinti. ukudala ibhalansi ebonakalayo.
4. Ukunakekelwa nokugcinwa kwezigqoko zamadoda
I izigqoko zamadoda Ziyi-accessory enemisebenzi eminingi nenhle engangeza isitayela nobunkimbinkimbi kunoma iyiphi ingubo. Nokho, njenganoma iyiphi into yokugqoka, ibalulekile nakekela futhi unakekele ngendlela efanele izigqoko zakho ukuqinisekisa ukuthi zihlala zigqokile isesimweni esihle futhi uhlale isikhathi eside.
Isinyathelo sokuqala ku- ukunakekelwa nokugcinwa wezigqoko zamadoda yi uwagcine kahleKunconywa ukugcina izigqoko ebhokisini noma isikhwama sendwangu esivikela othulini kanye nelanga eliqondile. Kubalulekile futhi gwema ukuwachoboza lapho uzigcina, njengoba lokhu kungakhubaza ukuma kwesigqoko. Uma isigqoko sakho senziwe ngokuzizwa, kuhle futhi ukubeka ifomu lesigqoko noma i-aluminium foil ngaphakathi ukugcina isimo sayo.
Esinye isici esiyinhloko ku- ukunakekelwa nokugcinwa wezigqoko zamadoda yi zihlanze kahle. Indlela yokuhlanza izoncika ezintweni zesigqoko sakho. Ukuze uthole izigqoko zotshani, ungasebenzisa ibhulashi elithambile noma ithawula elimanzi ukuze ususe uthuli. Ezigqokweni ezizwiwayo, kuyanconywa ukuthi usebenzise ibhulashi elinamabristle athambile ukuze uhlanze ngobumnene indawo engaphezulu. Uma kukhona amabala anenkani eyengeziwe noma ukungcola, kungase kudingeke ukuthi uhambise isigqoko endaweni yokuhlanza isigqoko.
5. Izinhlobo zezigqoko ezinhle kakhulu zamadoda
Kwabesilisa abafuna isitayela nokuvikelwa elangeni, kubalulekile ukuba nezigqoko ezingcono kakhulu ezitholakalayo. emaketheKukhona amabhrendi amaningana aqashelwa ikhwalithi yawo ehlukile kanye nomklamo. I-Brixton, uhlobo lwangempela evela e-United States, ivelele ngezinhlobonhlobo zezigqoko zayo, kuhlanganise namamodeli anomumo obanzi alungele ukubukeka okuyinkimbinkimbi. Ngaphezu kwalokho, I-Stetson Ibhrendi yenganekwane enikezela ngezigqoko okusezingeni eliphezulu, ngezinto ezihlala isikhathi eside kanye nemiklamo yakudala engalokothi iphume esitayeleni.
Enye brand ephawulekayo UGoorin Bros, eyaziwa ngezigqoko zayo zesitayela se-fedora ezine-twist yesimanje. Imiklamo yayo eshelelayo nesitayela ikhwalithi ephezulu zenze zibe yisinqumo esihle kakhulu kulabo abafuna isitayela esiyinkimbinkimbi nesimanje. Ngokolunye uhlangothi, UBailey waseHollywood Iwuphawu olunikezela ngezigqoko ezibanzi zabesilisa, kusukela kuzitayela zakudala kuye ezigqamile, imiklamo enesibindi. Ukunaka kwabo imininingwane nobungcweti kwenza isigqoko ngasinye sibe umsebenzi weqiniso wobuciko.
Ekugcineni, Ukucindezela iwuphawu lomkhiqizo emhlabeni yemfashini yasemadolobheni enomugqa wezigqoko zamadoda anesitayela esikhululekile nesikhululekile. Imiklamo yayo emisha kanye ne-avant-garde ifaneleka ngokuphelele kulawo madoda afuna ukusetha amathrendi futhi ahluke esixukwini. Ngokunjalo, Isikhathi Esisha Iwuphawu oluqashelwa umhlaba wonke ngezigqoko zalo ze-baseball, ezinemiklamo yezemidlalo nemibala egqamile efanelekile kwabathandi wezemidlalo nemfashini yasemadolobheni.
6. Izincomo zokubheka ukuzethemba futhi nenhle ngesigqoko sakho
:
1. Khetha isigqoko esifanele: Isinyathelo sokuqala sokubukeka uqiniseka futhi usesitayeleni esigqokweni sakho ukukhetha esifanela isitayela sakho, isimo sobuso, kanye nesenzakalo. Cabangela impahla yesigqoko, njengokuzizwa noma utshani, bese ukhetha isitayela esihambisana nempahla yakho. Khumbula, isigqoko esikhethwe kahle singaba isesekeli esiphelele sokuthuthukisa ukubukeka kwakho.
2. Lungisa kahle isigqoko sakho: Ukuze ubukeke uzethemba futhi usesitayeleni, kubalulekile ukuthi isigqoko sakho silingane kahle. Qiniseka ukuthi ayixege kakhulu noma ayimpintshi kakhulu. Uma ungaqiniseki ngokuthi usilungisa kanjani isigqoko sakho, thintana ne-milliner noma usebenzise izesekeli ezifana namalayini noma amabhande alungisekayo ukuze uqinisekise ukuthi silingana kahle.
3. Nakekela futhi uhlanze isigqoko sakho ngendlela efanele: Ukuze ugcine isigqoko sakho sisezingeni eliphezulu, kubalulekile ukusinakekela futhi usihlanze njalo. Uma isigqoko sakho senziwe ngemizwa, sebenzisa ibhulashi elithambile ukuze ususe uthuli nendwangu emanzi ukuze ususe amabala. Ukuze uthole izigqoko zotshani, gwema ukuzenza zibe manzi futhi usebenzise ibhulashi ukuze ususe ukungcola. Khumbula ukugcina isigqoko sakho endaweni efanele, evikelekile. kokukhanya kanye nomswakama, uma ungawusebenzisi.
7. Isigqoko njengesisetshenziswa esisebenzayo nesivikelayo ezimeni ezahlukene
Indlela indoda egqoke ngayo isigqoko ingenza umehluko ekubukekeni kwayo nasesitayeleni. Ngaphezu kwalokho, lesi sesekeli asigcini nje ngokuba nenani lobuhle, kodwa futhi sisebenza umsebenzi obalulekile ekuvikeleni izakhi kanye nemisebe yelanga. Kubalulekile ukwazi ukuthi usigqoka kanjani isigqoko ngendlela efanele ukuze uthole inzuzo enkulu ekusebenzeni kwaso nasekuvikelekeni. Nazi ezinye izincomo ukuze ubonise isigqoko sakho. kahle futhi ujabulele izinzuzo zayo.
1. Ukuvikelwa kwelanga: Isigqoko singaba ukuzivikela kwakho okuhle kakhulu emisebeni yelanga eyingozi. Khetha izigqoko ezinamabrim abanzi ezinikeza umthunzi owengeziwe nesivikelo sobuso bakho nentamo.
2. Isitayela Nesenzakalo: Kunezinhlobo ezahlukene zezigqoko ezifanelana nezimo nezitayela ezahlukene. Ngemicimbi esemthethweni eyengeziwe noma imicimbi yangaphandle, ungakhetha isigqoko esinomphetho obanzi esinomklamo omuhle. Phakathi naleso sikhathi, emisebenzini evamile noma yezemidlalo, kuyalulekwa ukuthi ukhethe isigqoko sesitayela se-cap noma i-fedora enomphetho omfushane.
3. Ukunethezeka nokufaneleka: Qiniseka ukuthi ukhetha isigqoko esilingana kahle nosayizi wekhanda lakho ukuze usivimbele ukuthi singawi noma sibangele ukungakhululeki. Izigqoko ezinebhande elilungisekayo ngaphakathi ngokuvamile zinikeza ukulingana komuntu siqu. Futhi, cabangela ukukhethwa kwezinto zesigqoko, ezifana nekotini noma ilineni, njengoba zinikeza induduzo enkulu nokuphefumula.
Khumbula ukuthi uma ugqoke isigqoko, kufanele ukwenze lokho ngokuzethemba nangokuqiniseka. Ngeke nje wengeze ukuthinta kwesitayela ekubukeni kwakho, kodwa futhi uzobe uzivikela elangeni nakwezinye izakhi. Isigqoko siyisisetshenziswa esisebenzayo nesivikelayo esingathuthukisa noma iyiphi ingubo futhi sikusize ugqame. Landela lawa macebiso futhi ujabulele izinzuzo isigqoko samadoda esingakunikeza ezimweni ezahlukene.
8. Isigqoko njengento ehlukanisayo nokuba yinkimbinkimbi
Ukugqoka isigqoko kuwuphawu lobugagu nobunkimbinkimbi ezimpahleni zabesilisa. Lesi sesekeli singagcwalisa futhi sithuthukise noma yikuphi ukubukeka, sinikeze isitayela nokwehluka. Kodwa-ke, kubalulekile ukwazi izinketho ezahlukene ezitholakalayo nokuthi ungagqoka kanjani kahle uhlobo ngalunye lwesigqoko ukuze ugweme ukwenza amaphutha esitayela.
Kunezitayela ezahlukene zezigqoko zamadoda, njenge-fedora, i-trilby, i-pageboy, i-borsalino, phakathi kwezinye. Ukukhetha isigqoko esifanele kuzoncika ohlotsheni lobuso bomuntu ngamunye, ubude, nesitayela somuntu siqu. Isibonelo, amadoda anobuso obuyindilinga angakhetha izigqoko ezinompheme obanzi ukuze alinganise izilinganiso, kuyilapho labo abanobuso obude bangazuza ezigqokweni ezimfushane noma ze-pageboy.
Ukwengeza, kubalulekile ukucabangela umcimbi kanye nempahla lapho ukhetha isigqoko. Ngemicimbi ehlelekile, izigqoko ezizwakalayo ezinemibala emnyama ziyanconywa, kuyilapho ukubukeka okungajwayelekile ungakhetha izigqoko zotshani noma zendwangu elula. Khumbula ukuthi isigqoko kufanele silingane ngokufanele ekhanda, singacini kakhulu noma sixege kakhulu, ukuze sisivimbele ukuthi singawi noma sishelele ngesikhathi sokusetshenziswa.
9. Umlando kanye nomfanekiso ngemuva kwesigqoko semfashini yamadoda
Isigqoko siyisisekeli esikhona amakhulu eminyaka ngemfashini yamadoda. Kuwo wonke yomlando, isetshenziswe kokubili ekusebenzeni kwayo kanye nenani layo elingokomfanekiso. Kusukela ezigqokweni eziphezulu ezigqokwa umphakathi ophezulu ngekhulu le-19, ezigqokweni ezinompheme obanzi ezigqokwa ama-cowboy e-Wild West, lesi sisekeli sesishintshile futhi sashiya uphawu olubalulekile emfashinini yabesilisa.
Isigqoko asigcini nje ngokuphelelisa ingubo yowesilisa, kodwa futhi singaveza isithombe sobuhle, ubunkimbinkimbi, nobuntu. Kuye ngohlobo lwesigqoko esikhethiwe, Kungafinyelelwa ukubukeka okujwayelekile nokuhlelekile, noma ukubukeka okungajwayelekile nokukhululekile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, isigqoko singaphinda sivikele indoda emisebeni yelanga noma emakhazeni, sibe isisetshenziswa esisebenzayo nesisebenzayo kunoma iyiphi isizini.
Emfashinini yamadoda anamuhla, kunezitayela ezahlukene zezigqoko ezingasetshenziswa ukuhambisana nezingubo ezihlukahlukene. Isigqoko se-fedora, isibonelo, silungele ukubukeka kwe-vintage ne-retro.. Ingabhangqwa nesudi yemicimbi esemthethweni noma ngehembe lesitayela se-bohemian ukuze kubukeke okungajwayelekile. Esinye isitayela esithandwayo isigqoko esinomphetho obanzi, esilungele ukubukeka kwehlobo nemicimbi yangaphandle. Lolu hlobo lwesigqoko lungeza ukuthinta kobukhazikhazi kanye nemfihlakalo kunoma iyiphi ingubo..
10. Ungathenga kuphi izigqoko zekhwalithi ngentengo enhle
Uma usesha izigqoko zekhwalithi ngentengo enhle, kubalulekile ukwazi izinketho ezahlukene ezitholakalayo emakethe. Inketho ethembekile yokuthenga izigqoko zekhwalithi iwukuba izitolo ezikhethekile ezizinikele ekuthengiseni izigqoko zamadoda kuphela. Lezi zitolo ngokuvamile ziphethe izitayela nemikhiqizo ehlukahlukene, okukuvumela ukuthi uthole isigqoko esiphelele saso sonke isikhathi.
Enye indlela yokuthenga izigqoko zekhwalithi ngentengo enhle ngezitolo eziku-inthanethi. Kukhona amapulatifomu amaningi nezitolo ezibonakalayo ku-inthanethi ezinikezela ngezigqoko eziningi zamadoda. Uma uthenga ku-inthanethi, kubalulekile ukuhlola isithunzi somthengisi futhi ufunde izibuyekezo zamanye amakhasimende ukuze uqinisekise ukuthi uthenga umkhiqizo wekhwalithi. Kungumqondo omuhle futhi ukubuyekeza imbuyiselo yomthengisi nezinqubomgomo zewaranti ngaphambi kokuthenga kwakho.
Ngokufanayo, kuyenzeka ukuthola izigqoko zekhwalithi ngentengo enhle ezitolo ezithengisa izinto ezithengiswayo noma ezimakethe zezeze. Nakuba lezi zindawo zivame ukunikeza izimpahla ezisetshenzisiwe, kungenzeka ukuthola izigqoko ezisesimweni esihle kakhulu ngamanani ancintisana kakhulu. Ngaphambi kokuthenga kwakho, kubalulekile ukuhlola isigqoko ukuze uqiniseke ukuthi akukho monakalo noma ukungapheleli okuthinta ikhwalithi yaso.
Ngingu-Sebastián Vidal, unjiniyela wekhompyutha ozifelayo ngobuchwepheshe kanye ne-DIY. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ngingumdali we tecnobits.com, lapho ngabelana khona ngezifundo zokwenza ubuchwepheshe bufinyeleleke kakhudlwana futhi buqonde wonke umuntu.